As it stands, Everton Plaza’s roster of eateries covers some crucial culinary bases. Currently, diners can choose between Italian (Corbett & Claude), South American (Comuna Cantina), American-style eats (5 Boroughs), healthy bites (Acai Bros) and classic brunch fare (Stellarossa) – the only glaring omission amongst the food precinct’s procession of openings  in 2019 was in the realm of Asian cuisine, but now that void has been suitably filled. Quietly opening just before Christmas, Sichuan Papa slotted snugly between 5 Boroughs and Stellarosa, bringing with it a punchy take on Chinese fare – specifically the kind popular in the Sichuan province. The driving force behind the restaurant is the Sichuan papa himself, head chef Tiger Zheng, who has collated his vast knowledge of Sichuan-style cuisine from his lengthy and globe-spanning culinary career and funnelled it into this new venture. Although accustomed to the controlled pandemonium of hotel kitchens, Tiger has opted to showcase his passion for Sichuan fare in a format more akin to humble neighbourhood Chinese restaurants, with a multi-faceted community appeal a key focus. The restaurant’s laneway entrance is where one will find the takeaway window, coupled with informal seating perfect for a quick drink and snack while you wait for your order or for a table inside. If you are dining in, you’ll be greeted with some decorative touches synonymous with old-school suburban Chinese eateries – think red pendant lights, vibrant prints on the walls and eye-catching wall paper. A private dining space is sequestered behind luxurious velvet curtains, but the general indoor and outdoor spaces can cater to 100 patrons comfortably.

Chef Tiger has put his inspirations to work, creating a menu that showcases the moreish appeal of Sichuan fare. If you’re unfamiliar with the nuanced differences between Sichuan cuisine and, say, Cantonese fare, the variations can be identified in the flavour profiles. Sichuan cuisine is known for its numbing spiciness (a product of the cuisine’s use of Sichuan pepper and various chillies), though Sichuan Papa offers plenty of options for those with a delicate palate. Alongside fellow chef Chiu Yeung (formerly of iconic Sunnybank institution Landmark Restaurant), Tiger has assembled a tidy mix of traditional and new Chinese meals prepared with home-cooking and modern techniques. The opening act consists of small plates (think xiao long bao, spicy pork and prawn wontons, roasted-duck pancakes) segues into a procession of share-style serves of Sichuan ‘double cooked’ pork belly, traditional Sichuan poached fish, stir-fried cumin-spiced lamb, signature crispy chilli chicken, black-pepper beef and even wok-fried intestine for the adventurous eaters. Rounding out the menu is a selection of vegetable and bean-curd based dishes, rice and noodle-based meals (the Sichuan dan dan noodles and duck fried rice are specialties), and a small selection of creative desserts. Sichuan Papa’s drinks selection has been curated to pair with the fare, with a clutch of eight wines (available by the glass and bottle), three cocktails and four beers (Tsing Tao, Snow Lager and the restaurant’s own pale ale) on hand to extinguish the spicy heat.

Sichuan Papa is now open at Everton Plaza. For opening hours and contact details, check out the Stumble Guide.