Get a sneak peek at TAMA – the two-level restaurant at the heart of the new-look GPO precinct
Get a sneak peek at TAMA – the two-level restaurant at the heart of the new-look GPO precinct
Get a sneak peek at TAMA – the two-level restaurant at the heart of the new-look GPO precinct
Get a sneak peek at TAMA – the two-level restaurant at the heart of the new-look GPO precinct
Get a sneak peek at TAMA – the two-level restaurant at the heart of the new-look GPO precinct
Get a sneak peek at TAMA – the two-level restaurant at the heart of the new-look GPO precinct

Get a sneak peek at TAMA – the two-level restaurant at the heart of the new-look GPO precinct

Every time we cruise past The GPO in Fortitude Valley, we crane our neck in a vain attempt to get a glimpse inside. In August last year, Artesian Hospitality – the operators behind Cali Beach Club and Surfers Pavilion announced that it had taken over the heritage-listed building, with plans underway to bring it back to life as part of a $9-million restoration effort. Almost a year on and the crew is set to remove the hoarding surrounding two of the precinct’s new venues – TAMA and The Gatsby – this Saturday July 8. Overseen by a team boasting a top-tier pedigree, the elegantly appointed TAMA will dish up a refined menu of European-inspired eats alongside an impressive globe-spanning wine list. Read on to find out what you can expect from one of 2023’s most-anticipated openings …

Between final fit-out sign-offs, staff training, menu tweaks and systems testing, the week before a restaurant’s opening is chaotic, at the best of times. When your restaurant is part of a high-profile $9-million rejuvenation project aimed at revitalising a heritage-listed Fortitude Valley landmark, things get a lot more complicated and, as you can assume, more stressful. You wouldn’t know it by looking at Alan Hunter and Richard Ousby, though. As director of venue operations and executive chef of Artesian Hospitality’s Fortitude Valley GPO precinct, respectively, the duo have a lot on their plate. But as the first venues get set to open inside the building on Saturday July 8 – elegant two-level restaurant TAMA and upscale cocktail and whisky bar The Gatsby (that’s right, they’re not just opening one concept this weekend, but two) – neither Alan nor Richard are showing signs of fatigue. “It’s a big question,” says Alan, laughing, when we enquire about team morale in the lead-up to GPO’s unveiling. “It’s a massive process of micro task managing – there’s so many things arriving and coming in at once. There is a light at the end of the tunnel where it will all come together at the last moment. We’re close.” When you think about it, it’s no surprise the duo are feeling relaxed. Alan (acclaimed sommelier and former OTTO Brisbane general manager) and Richard (a renowned chef formerly of Stokehouse Melbourne and Brisbane) have worked in plenty of high-pressure venues throughout their careers. Their appointment to important positions at the helm of this ambitious development is no doubt a calculated move on behalf of Artesian’s founder and managing partner Matthew Keegan, whose vision of a multifaceted drinking and dining hub was a key factor in enticing the two hospitality veterans to sign on. “He had an opportunity to spell out the magnitude of this product and got me really interested to do something that has a lot of moving parts,” recalls Alan. “It’s a big project and that’s something that I really saw as a big challenge.” In this instance, big feels like an understatement. TAMA and The Gatsby aren’t the only concepts planned for GPO 2.0 (glamorous old-world bar The Tax Office is slated to open later this year), but as first cabs off the rank, the team is looking to make a good first impression.

Elevated 120-seat restaurant TAMA is a looker – it occupies a portion of the ground floor and a mezzanine level, with soaring ceilings and double-storey windows adding to the impression-making decor of the interior. Working with The Royal Historical Society of Queensland, Brisbane City Council, heritage architects, Zero9 Constructions and Space Cubed Design Studio, the Artesian team has meticulously restored the building’s elegant original elements, imbuing TAMA with a sense of grandeur and comfort (courtesy of soft furnishings, stone and marble flooring, greenery, original beams and custom chandeliers) that matches the structure’s 1887 Victorian Italianate facade. Although TAMA is the jewel in the precinct’s crown, Alan and Richard are hesitant to label the restaurant with the ‘fine dining’ tag. “It’s not fine dining in the sense that there’s white gloves,” says Alan. “There isn’t a degustation menu, it’s an a la carte menu that can also be shared. A lot of the stuffiness that is probably associated with fine dining is not there.”

“In the context of the food, it’s much the same,” says Richard of TAMA’s debut menu. “The stuffiness is stripped out, but we’ve got some great produce – we’ve warmed up some of it and cooled down other bits.” TAMA’s kitchen is anchored by a Spanish-imported Josper charcoal oven, which will see plenty of use cooking the restaurant’s array of sea and land-born morsels, most of which is sourced from the Scenic Rim, Darling Downs, Granite Belt, and North Queensland. Speaking about TAMA’s culinary inspirations, Richard reflects on his time working at the Waterside Inn in England, where he honed the intricacies of classical French cuisine. “It’s nice to draw on some of those traditional techniques,” says Richard. “Not to say I haven’t done that before, but they really shine through with this menu. It has a quite a strong draw to Europe with a couple of little Aussie tweaks to it, which is probably one of my go-to moves.” The menu kicks off with smaller bites, ranging from warm native Akoya pearl oysters with sake butter and short-crust caviar tarts with creme fraiche, to anchovy grissini, king-prawn rolls and beetroot with goat curd with witlof and pomegranate molasses (there’s also a table-side artisan cheese and caviar service). From there, guests and enjoy three handmade pasta dishes – including a signature TAMA bolognese with pork wagyu and aged reggiano – or head straight for large plates of seafood volute with mussels, scallops, whiting and ham hock, and Berkshire pork belly with apple and macadamia. TAMA’s smoky centrepiece dishes come from the charcoal oven, with deboned whole coral trout, Tasmanian lobsterorganic lamb loin and a show-stopping 2-kilo Angus tomahawk available to enjoy with sides and sauces. It’s enough fare to leave you in a state of sweaty-browed and glossy-eyed contentment, but we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the wine. A 136-year-old vault houses the GPO precinct’s custom-made cellar, which can hold up to 1700 bottles of wine. It’s from this impressive selection Alan has curated TAMA’s vino list, which ranges from economical options and cult Australian brands to splashy high-end labels. “TAMA’s not bound by a cuisine, so there’s a very broad international list that’s drawing from wine across the world,” Alan explains. “We’re able to service almost anyone’s request, big or small, in there.”

TAMA officially opens to the public on Saturday July 8. Bookings are live! Head to the Stumble Guide for contact details, menu info and reservation links and stay tuned for a look inside The Gatsby later this week.

The Stumble Guide is our comprehensive Brisbane dining guide with more than 2400 places to eat, drink, shop and play.

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