While the lockdown era saw a lot of us try our hands at bread making, only a small percentage of us stuck with the hobby for more than a few attempts. Why would you, though, when Riser Bread’s subscription service was ensuring that fresh loaves of olive, lemon zest and rosemary bread were readily available? Tom Cooney, Duncan McKay and Kieran Ryan launched the concept in 2020, baking a range of bready beauties that carb cravers could pick up every Friday from local bars and cafes. The weekly sourdough drop became an anticipated part of lockdown rituals and continued well into 2021, and as word spread of Riser’s quality, demand for the trio’s product grew exponentially. Despite the popularity of the subscription service, the Riser plan always involved opening a bricks-and-mortar bakery-cafe hybrid at some point. In early 2022 the crew pressed pause on the weekly bake, turning attention towards finding a permanent site to call home. “We stuck to our guns on waiting for the right thing to pop up,” says Kieran of the location search. “Finding something that was a little bit out of the way with heaps of character that just needed a little bit of love and care – for us that was a real drawcard.”

The ideal site presented itself in a leafy pocket of Toowong. A charming Queenslander, previously home to restaurant 85 Miskin St, was the right kind of open and warm space, handily situated in an under-serviced suburb in sore need of a baked-goods resource. The team linked up with Five Mile Radius – an architecture and design studio that specialises in working with recycled and low-carbon materials – to help shape Riser Bread HQ (alongside carpenter Ellie Farrington, who led the fit-out) into a lovely light-filled and sustainably built bakery where as much as possible was fashioned from recycled materials. The front deck leads locals in to the shopfront, where timber meshes with a white and pistachio colour scheme that’s offset by bright red accents. Behind the service counter you’ll spy the production kitchen, where pastry- and bread-making zones are constantly abuzz with activity. Move past those up the rear stairs and you’ll find yourself in Riser’s internal dining space, which also boasts access to a tranquil back patio where a few extra tables reside.

While the space is easy on the eyes, it’s what’s in the pastry cabinet and on the bread racks that really draws attention. Where Riser’s subscription service turned out a different kind of loaf each week, here the entire core range is available at the same time alongside rotating seasonal specials. Swing through and grab one of Riser’s country-style sourdoughs (dubbed the Table Loaf), made with wholegrain flour and a touch of rye, or snag a Seedy Boy (a grain-filled option boasting sesame, sunflower seed, linseed and poppyseed) for your morning toast. There’s also the aforementioned olive, lemon zest and rosemary loaf, a Scando-style 100-percent rye and a triple raisin and toasted fennel seed option that’s great for cheese boards. Perhaps the most exciting new element to emerge with the opening of Riser’s new home is the pastry selection. Skilled baker Kirsty Hustwick (formerly of Sprout Artisan Bakery and Loafer Bread in Melbourne) has been brought into the fold and given full creative freedom to dream up recipes for Riser’s flaky finds, which range from classics to more out-of-the-box options. Plain and almond croissants, kouign-amanns and seasonal fruit danishes are nestled up with the likes of walnut and sea-salt scrolls, mortadella and Lombardi pickle croissants, asparagus and pecorino danishes, kardemummabullar (Swedish cardamom buns), and ajvar and fetta bear claws. There’s also meaty and vegetarian-friendly sausage rolls and sandwiches (including classic egg salad and ham, smoked cheddar and pickle), if you’re after a more lunch-appropriate bite. Coffee Supreme is Riser Bread’s caffeine supplier of choice, with cups of jolt juice on offer alongside chai from Yoke Kitchen in West End and fresh orange juice. “Our motto, when we were thinking about what we wanted to celebrate and showcase, was just ‘simple and delicious’,” says Kieran of Riser’s prime directive. Judging by the lines that stretch out the door every morning, it seems like Brisbane is picking up what Riser Bread’s putting down.

Riser Bread is open Thursday to Sunday – head to the Stumble Guide for operating hours and website links.