When it comes to vacant sites, some subtly hint at their potential as a restaurant, while others scream it. As seasoned hospitality veteran Simon Hill (of Bar Alto fame) tells it, the Newstead space that now houses his brand-new wine bar and grill Bosco leaned more towards the latter. The cavernous Austin Street warehouse, which is also home to a purpose-built production facility for iconic baked-goods outfit (and long-time Bar Alto supplier) Brewbakers, struck Simon as the perfect out-of-the-way location for a concept that he’s had on his mind for a while. “I’d come and pick the bread up every day and it just seemed to want to be a restaurant,” says Simon. “So [Brewbakers owner Richard Cotton] and I had a chat and decided we’d put one in.” Bosco hoisted open its roller door entrance last Thursday with little fanfare, giving those in the know a peek inside the spacious digs before the crowds caught on.  “I’ve always wanted to have a restaurant of this simplicity where there’s a big garage door at the front – you open up the garage door and start serving people,” says Simon. “There’s no sort of pomp and ceremony, there’s no grand opening, there’s nothing.” Though Bosco’s launch has been a purposefully under-the-radar affair, it won’t be long before word of its offering, which sees Simon drilling down deeper into his cherished culinary loves, makes its way through foodie circles.

Bosco occupies the street-facing portion of its warehouse home, with Brewbakers continuing to operate out back. The interior is bisected lengthways, with an informal lounge space for walk-ins, bar and kitchen running along one wall opposite banks of long tables. Architecture firm Nielsen Jenkins and Anna Walk have worked on the build and interior design, offsetting the building’s steel and concrete structure with opaque curtains, cushy furnishings and salvaged timber across the bar, kitchen pass and tables. “It’s a lot of contradictions,” says Simon. “We wanted it to be really industrial and we wanted big long tables, so it had a warehouse beer-hall feel, but then we wanted to throw a lot of plushness at it to offset that as well.” Aside from the towering backbar, Bosco’s biggest eye-catching fixture is its brick-encased woodfire hearth, which houses a parrilla grill and an imposing one-of-a-kind, custom-made open-fire oven called an Infiernillo (translated to mean ‘little hell’). Designed by Bar Alto’s executive chef Sajith Vengateri and made locally by the master ironsmiths at Ember Industries, this steel masterpiece boasts two blazing planks that allow Bosco’s chefs to control the cooking temperatures independently by firing up from the bottom and burning embers on the top deck, guaranteeing an even cook.

Bosco’s menu, overseen by Sajith and Bosco head chef Mimmo Miceli (formerly of Pilloni), is drawing the bulk of its inspiration from restaurants that Simon’s worked in, owned or visited in regions that he adores. “We’ve had Spanish restaurants before, we’ve had French restaurants before and we’ve had Italian restaurants before,” says Simon, alluding to his fondly remembered Fortitude Valley restaurants Ortiga and Isis Brasserie, as well as enduring stand-out Bar Alto. “There’s elements of those that we love, but there are some parts that really shine for us.” At Bosco, it’s the simple grilled foods from the oil regions of Spain, France and Italy that are core to the offering. Well, that and bread. “Bread plays a massive part,” acknowledges Simon. “We’re in an industrial bakery – we’re using six or seven different types of breads.” From airy cuts of ‘brew bread’ with Bosco butter and oven-baked gilda flat breads to mussels bathing in cider cream accompanied by a crusty slab of French sourdough, carb lovers will find lots of admire. Other stand-out options include pig trotter flambedou oysters, bay bug clay-pot rice with txistorra and rouille, whole mud crab cooked in the Infiernillo, heritage pork tomahawks, half Darling Downs chicken with vadouvan jus gras, and Basque-style black onyx rib ‘el txuleton’. Existing hand-in-hand with the fare is Bosco’s lengthy wine list, a curated tome showcasing regionally specific drops that match what emerges from the kitchen. “The cellar program has been going on for ten years, so we’ve literally brought out a whole lot of stuff,” says Simon “There’s a big chunk of burgundy, there’s a very large Italian section, and there are some great Australian numbers, but there’s not one of everything. If it doesn’t go with the food, then we don’t have it on the list.” Bosco’s cocktail list hangs its hat on a strong selection of amaro from both Australia and from Italy, available alongside a range of aperitifs, gin-based sips, brandies and craft beers.

Bosco is now open to the public – operating hours, booking details and menu information can be found via the Stumble Guide.