Not just noodles – Taro’s Ramen launches a nighttime izakaya offering
One of Brisbane’s top-flight ramen joints has evolved. Taro Akimoto of Taro’s Ramen has introduced a brand new izakaya-style menu at his inner-city location on Queen Street, serving up authentic and creative takes on izakaya staples like curry-dusted karaage, homemade chicken jerky with shichimi mayo, crispy yaki onigiri and wagyu garlic steaks alongside his famed bowls of steaming ramen.
When Taro Akimoto ditched the suit and tie in favour of a chef’s apron, he did so to pursue his long-held dream of opening his own ramen shop. A handy byproduct of Taro chasing his dream was an immediate improvement in Brisbane’s ramen offering. Not long after launching in 2010, Taro’s Ramen became the yardstick by which most local ramen joints are measured – a testament to Taro’s own commitment to finding the perfect balance between broth and noodle.
Fourteen years on and Taro’s Ramen is still at the top of its game, but Taro himself has begun to feel a pull that’s been tugging him in a new direction.
“I started off a very hungry young man with a big appetite for rich flavours, so ramen was a huge craving and passion,” says Taro. “I’m 48 now. My stomach’s become a little bit tamer and I’m wanting more of the finer things in life – delicate seafood, more good-quality wagyu. So my style of cooking has changed, especially at home.”
When the restaurateur was approached last year by Brisbane Powerhouse and Sapporo to run a pop-up izakaya at the spring edition of Night Feast, Taro seized the opportunity to dedicate his attention to something other than ramen. Throughout the month-long event, guests flocked to taste Taro’s take on izakaya-style fare, which included the likes crispy yaki onigiri, succulent karaage and mouth-watering wagyu garlic steak. Seeing diners experience a different side of his cooking got Taro thinking – was there a place for this kind of offering at his restaurants?
Three weeks ago Taro rebranded his inner-city location at 480 Queen Street to Taro’s Izakaya & Ramen, offering an ever-changing menu of eats during the shop’s nighttime trading hours.
Much like how the advent of Taro’s Ramen filled a glaring gap in Brisbane’s dining scene, Taro’s Izakaya looks to up the quality of casual Japanese fare offered in Brisbane. “There’s really good high-end sushi and high-end kaiseki [in Brisbane],” says Taro. “But if I’m going out with my family, or just a casual thing with my friends, there aren’t many options.” So once again Taro is coming to the rescue but, as always, he’s doing it his way.
The Taro’s Izakaya menu changes daily, with Taro relishing the opportunity to be more spontaneous and experimental in the kitchen. “There’s just an endless list of dishes that have never been brought to Brisbane,” says Taro, listing off the likes of chicken liver sashimi, chicken giblet karaage and offal-based dishes – fare not typically seen around town – as items he’s already experimented with since launching Taro’s Izakaya last month.
“With ramen, it’s kind of difficult to incorporate [those ingredients],” Taro admits. “I really need to perfect it – I would experiment weeks and weeks to put it on the menu. But with an izakaya, it’s more about simple execution and classical cooking styles. If I come across something interesting, I can try it on a whim.”
The core of the Taro’s Izakaya menu features a broad spectrum of izakaya staples, including pop-up favourites like the posh edamame with truffle mayo and curry-dusted karaage, as well as mixed sashimi platters, vegan karaage, kakuni-style braised pork jowl, takoyaki, pork gyoza, and eggplant dengaku. Every night, a clutch of daily specials offer more experimental options – we’re talking Rocky Point grouper karaage, homemade chicken jerky with shichimi mayo and Hokkaido scallop carpaccio. Ramen fans needn’t fret, as the full ramen menu is running concurrently with the izakaya-style nosh.
On the drinks front, Taro has kept the beverage menu much the same, with Suntory Premium Malts available off tap alongside a small selection of sakes and plum wines. That said, Taro has added a greater selection of vino from South Australia’s Petaluma Wine to the mix and has plans to bolster the beverage list further. “When people think of an izakaya, firstly they think of beer, then they’ll think of sake, but there’s a third sector of whisky highballs and shochu mixers. These, I don’t have too much on the menu yet – but I’d love to incorporate that,” says Taro.
Taro’s Izakaya & Ramen operates from 5:30–8:30 pm, seven days a week. Head to the Stumble Guide for more information.
The Stumble Guide is our comprehensive Brisbane dining guide with more than 2400 places to eat, drink, shop and play.
