Once upon a time, Racecourse Road was Brisbane’s preeminent dining strip. As the city expanded and its fabric incorporated new threads, other precincts densified and started claiming the lion’s share of the spotlight. The peaks and valleys of popularity are part and parcel of a city’s evolutionary process. That said, with Portside Wharf in the midst of a renewal and plans in place for Northshore Hamilton’s transformation into the main athlete village for the Brisbane 2032 Olympic and Paralympic Games, Hamilton and Ascot – and Racecourse Road in particular – might be on the precipice of a comeback. “I think Racecourse Road is due a revival,” says Chris Cosgriff, general manager of Muragh Operations – the hospo group behind The Jetty in South Bank and Botany in Newstead. “It was a place that was the James Street of Brisbane. Now there’s a new culinary wave coming through.” The Muragh Group is part of that wave. Its brand-new venue Victory Lane recently opened at the Eagle Farm end of Racecourse Road, a stone’s throw from the likes of Taro’s Ramen and Dicki’s. The site, previously home to One Fifty and, before that, long-running Baguette Bistrot and Bar, is a storied fixture of the street – a pillar that’s remained active as Racecourse Road changed around it. “The space is beautiful and it’s got more history than any other site in Brisbane,” says Chris, who reveals that the Muragh Group had explored options in the Hamilton area before coming across the Ascot space. “It fit in with the group – Botany is all about locals and Jetty specialises in really quality food and drinks. We get to connect those two things here.”

Victory Lane’s crisp interior is the result of a brisk refit that saw a darker palette exchanged for one consisting primarily of white timber panelling, white brick and marble, with greenery adding pops of life to the venue. Loosely divided into alfresco area (shaded by a wide-reaching fig tree, coated in fairy lights), casual bar space and more formal dining room, Victory Lane can easily cater to walk-in custom and the sit-down crowd – a versatility that allows the venue to host large-scale functions like weddings. A new-look bar and wine wall shields the freshly equipped kitchen, while the existing roof truss at the rear of the space allows ample light to filter in to the room, illuminating an olive-green banquette and cushy brown-leather seats.

Though elevated in style, Victory Lane’s offering is couched in approachability. The menu’s foundation pitches towards modern Australian, but has been giving a sprinkling of French influences courtesy of Muragh Group’s executive chef Sebastien Legendre. Covering a range of proteins and dietary requirements, Victory Lane’s lunch and dinner menu is succinct but not limited in flavour. Entrees like smocked ham-hock croquettes, beetroot tartare with balsamic gel and ponzu and sesame-flamed salmon are lip-smacking starters, while large-format mains including roasted duck breast with hazelnut hay-baked celeriac puree, and barbecue-glazed Angus bavettes are perfect for sharing with a string of sides. In addition to lunch and dinner services, expect Victory Lane to be busy on weekend for its boozy brunch sittings. Speaking of booze, Victory Lane’s beverage program encompasses local beers from the likes of Slipstream, a predominantly Australian wine list with loads of smashable options, and a selection of seasonal cocktails. Considered and composed, Victory Lane seems well poised to anchor Racecourse Road’s resurgence, and the Muragh Operations team are thinking long term when it comes to the venue’s legacy. “If you’re going out around here, for a drink or for dinner, we obviously want this to be the place,” says Chris. “I really want it to be an icon, something that is synonymous with Ascot and Racecourse Road.”

Victory Lane is now open to the public. Head to the Stumble Guide for operating hours, contact details and menu info.