Beyond our family and friends, the most important person in our life might be our barista. On days where we really need to unwind over a stiffer sip, though, it might be the bartender at our local instead. From Wednesday October 12, Zac Lazerac, owner of unceasingly busy caffeine joint Salt Coffee, will be pulling double duty for a lot of Newstead locals. Zac is already accustomed to serving invigorating cups of caffeine to bleary eyed folks every morning, but now he will be serving the same set of customers their nightcap at NIKY, the brand-new wine bar he’s opened this week alongside partner Nicole Black. “It’s the old cliche of the bartender being a therapist, but it’s kind of true in a sense,” says Zac of the role of baristas and bartenders in our daily lives. “Both really offer people an escape and companionship when they don’t expect it.” Much like how Salt has evolved into a vital community hub for early risers, NIKY is shaping up to be a similarly essential gathering place for night owls. Inspired by the cool wine bars they encountered on travels to New York (as well as interstate institutions like Sonny in Hobart and Sydney’s 10 William Street), Zac and Nicole decided to jump into the after-dark scene head first, funnelling their affection for natural wines into a nightspot that is interactive, colourful and, perhaps above all, fun. There’s a sense of education at play, too. Though natural wines are increasing in profile and popularity across Australia, there’s still a sense of unfamiliarity with that corner of viticulture that Zac and Nicole hope to alleviate for the oeno-curious by showcasing the best of Australia’s burgeoning crop of natural-leaning winemakers. “It’s kind of nice to be a part of that,” says Zac. “It’s a cool concept to be introducing people to that kind of style and giving them that nudge.”

NIKY sits inside a former carport next door to Salt on Doggett Street. Though cosy, the bar is colourfully conspicuous, with little of its original garage characteristics remaining after a slick fit-out process. Architect Andy Bell has lent his talents to the bar’s spartan-yet-stylish design scheme, which makes great use of contours, curves and texture to add a sense of dynamic energy and a contemporary coolness, day and night. The venue’s striking and well-appointed aesthetic is anchored primarily by pink-hued textured concrete, which is applied to NIKY’s walls (one of which arcs up and morphs seamlessly into the ceiling) and alcove shelving (illuminated by dimmable LED strips), which display wine bottles of various vibrant pigments, as well as plates, glassware and a record player. A Microcement-topped table is the centrepiece of the venue, with one side acting as the kitchen pass and bar, while the other boasts seating for 12 on polished, lightweight steel stools. By eschewing the delineation between patron and staff, Zac and Nicole hope to encourage free-flowing conversation between drink pourers and drink sippers. “I want people to come here and have a good time,” says Zac. “The way I see to do that is to get people involved, rather than section it off.” A low-set concrete table adds space for another four diners inside, while two high-top concrete tables outside add perches for another 12 sets of cheeks.

There’s no mistaking NIKY for anything other than a wine bar. Shelf space is dominated by bottles of different sizes and colours. The selection is predominantly new age, natural and nectarous (as well as mostly Australian). You won’t find much built-to-cellar stuff here, this is all gluggable gear intended to be plucked off the shelf and poured – sometimes not to be seen again for a while, as other drops take the place of depleted stock. “We really want to stay with the ethos of changing it quite frequently, but staying within that ballpark of fun, young producers and really approachable wines. Something different that people might not have tried,” says Zac. “If we sell out of something we can replace it with something else. It will be a free-flowing thing, same with the food. That’s the idea.” NIKY’s by-the-glass will be advertised daily on a blackboard above the kitchen, displaying a punchy array of picks loosely categorised by white, red, rosé and pét nat. Those keen to browse a by-the-bottle list need only look to the shelves – if it’s stocked, it’s available. At any point you can spy funky and foamy pét nats from Express Winemakers, Jauma Wines, La Violetta, Delinquente Wine Co and Ghost Rock Wines, rosé from Sven Joschke, Shobbrook Wines and Alessandro Viola, maceration from Das Juice and ARC Wines, pinot gris from Dilworth & Allain and LATTA Vino, shiraz from Brave New Wine, pinot noir from Xavier Goodridge, and sangiovese from Antonio Camillo, among others (there are also a few hulking magnums on offer, if you’re looking to push the boat out on something big). “If we enjoyed it, it earned space up there,” Zac adds. “There’s nothing there we haven’t tried or haven’t liked.” A small selection of locally produced craft-beer tins are available, while the bar’s cocktail offering will extend to simple throw-together concoctions like spritzes. NIKY’s menu of eats is similarly ephemeral, with head chef Jianne Jeoung (formerly of Greca, OTTO Brisbane and Clarence) crafting a tight selection of small snacks and larger shares that include the likes of roasted cauliflower with yellow cherry tomatoes and pesto sauce, stracciatella with grapes, tea-soaked currants, basil oil and roasted pine nuts (served with a toasted crumpet), sourdough toast with figs, anchovies and salami, tagliatelle with lemon butter, miso paste, and green and white asparagus, and kingfish crudo with nam jim, pickled cucumber and aleppo pepper.

NIKY is now officially open to the public. Operating hours can be found over in the Stumble Guide.