James Street is a long street. Though most attention is paid to glitzy Fortitude Valley end, where The Calile Hotel beams and its surrounding restaurants and bars heave, if you wander up the street towards New Farm, you’ll find a few hidden gems – namely some out-of-the-way retail spots and maybe a salon or two. You’ll also come across Blue Bear Coffee House, a casual cafe positioned at the roundabout junction of James and Kent Street. On a Saturday and Sunday morning Blue Bear buzzes with a rowdy brunch trade. Locals jostle for tables before inhaling pulled-pork eggs Benedict with cauliflower-and-potato rostis, 16-hour smoked brisket burgers with crispy bacon, and fluffy buttermilk pancake stacks. While nights are usually quieter down this end of James Street, Blue Bear’s owners Bec and Will Rubiano have sought to extend their brand of hospitality into the evenings with Hank’s Wine Bar, their cafe’s new after-dark alter ego. Last week the couple flipped the switch on a newly installed neon sign, which beamed yellow hues out onto the street alongside the light from a freshly retooled back bar. The local crowd poured in, many bringing their families and dogs, just like they do at brunch. Though instead of corn fritters, they enjoyed serves of battered-whiting sliders and smoked lamb shoulder casarecce, while the little ones nibbled on mini Dagwood dogs. “They were just so excited for somewhere where they can bring the kids without having to travel further into James Street,” says Bec of the launch weekend vibe. “It’s amazing how different it feels at night. I think it’s much more relaxed.”

That sense of removal from the bustle of James Street’s glamorous northern end gives Hank’s the air of a locals-only bar – a spot kept secret by those in the know. And while regulars might chafe at us blowing up their spot, Bec and Will would be the first to tell you that everyone is welcome, just like at Blue Bear. “I think we’re mainly just trying to appeal to those people that just want to pop by for a glass of wine and a snack,” says Bec. “The big thing that’s so important for us is that sense of community.” In the kitchen, Will is relishing the chance to flex his culinary muscles on non-breakfast fare, pouring his own Colombian heritage and love of smoked meats into the menu. Early highlights have been the smoked-pork toasties with Swiss cheese and pineapple-and-habanero jam, the smoked wagyu brisket cheeseburger, lamb shank bourguignon with pancetta and charred broccolini, and the roast pumpkin, white truffle and manchego arancini. The couple has also enjoyed assembling Hank’s wine list, punching up the selection with a savvy mix of classic and new-wave wines. “It’s been fun, because some of those older dads that come in that just want their Barossa shiraz, we’ve been able to nudge them outside of their comfort zones and into a different area,” says Bec. Sippers will spy the likes of Delinquente’s ‘Pretty Boy’ rosato, Adlib’s ‘Cirque’ cinsault and Vino Intrepido’s ‘Pound of Flesh’ skin-contact vermentino – as well as craft tins from BrewDog and Fick Brewing, plus canned cocktails from Bizarro.

Hank’s Wine Bar is now open to the public from Thursday to Saturday between 4:00–8:30 pm. More info can be found in the Stumble Guide.