For most chefs, cooking is a form of expression. It’s a way of sharing their tastes, conveying ideas and expressing creativity. For Andrew McCrea, the relationship goes a little bit deeper. With only with only six percent vision, the talented chef is legally blind. This means that his approach to cooking is shaped by more than just his palate – it is contoured by his distinct worldview, emotions and ability to draw inspiration from intangible sources. Perspective Dining – Andrew’s warmly intimate 12-seater restaurant that just opened in Fortitude Valley – is, for all intents and purposes, a literal extension of Andrew’s perspective. The restaurant’s launch is a coming out party of sorts, with Andrew stepping into an ownership role after heralded stints as executive chef for Queensland Parliament (where he made its lauded 10-seat Chef’s Table dining experience a must-try affair) and as executive chef at Crystalbrook Vincent and its new restaurant Mews. When we pop in on a Wednesday evening before service, we ask Andrew if Perspective feels like the best reflection of his personality on a plate to date. “It will be,” admits Andrew, candidly. “It’s my truth – this is a turning point for me, there’s no hiding.”

There’s certainly no room to hide at Perspective. The restaurant sits in a high-ceilinged space at the rear of the TC Beirne & Co building, near its Duncan Street entrance. It’s a single room boasting polished concrete floors, terracotta-hued tiles, exposed piping, alcove shelving and a singular curtained window. One half of the space houses an open kitchen designed by Andrew to be easily navigable, with an island pass ringed by equipment all within easy reach. The rest of Perspective’s floor plan is dominated by a lengthy timber table and a cluster of comfy leather seats. From the finely wrought silver napkin clasps to the rust-like patina of the table, Perspective is all about texture and detail, and while some small restaurants boast an air of hushed intimacy, the atmosphere at Perspective is animated. All sense of awkwardness that may come with dining with strangers dissipates once the action starts. “There’s so much going on when you walk in here,” says Andrew. “There’s chefs running around everywhere and there’s someone talking to you about what’s going on with the wine or what your menu options are. It kind of just fixes itself to be honest – everyone becomes friends at the end of the night.”

The biggest talking point amongst Perspective’s patrons will undoubtedly be the food. Perspective offers two nine-course tasting menus (one plant-based menu and one protein-based) that utilise locally sourced seasonal produce and unheralded cuts of meat. Andrew – a non-conformist out of necessity – is throwing away the rulebook and subverting his own classic French culinary teachings with left-field, emotion-driven experimentation and expectation-subverting plays on texture, taste and technique. “A lot of it is to do with my visual impairment,” says Andrew, in regards to the nuances to his approach. “I take pleasure in different things you take pleasure in. I take pleasure from feel and taste and smell – that’s what my world revolves around.” This approach has resulted in curiously named – and artfully plated – dishes such as Old carrot new carrot (pickle, carrot milk and scratching), Fungi and seaweed (translucent preserve, ancient lime and yam), Cappuccino and custard (cauliflower, oat, truffle water and custard slice), and Beetroot fossil (smoke, skins and some beetroots). Dishes will be regularly tweaked and swapped out depending on what produce is at its seasonal peak. Diners can enhance their Perspective experience with matched wines (or opt for just a glass or two, if preferred), with small Australian producers showcased alongside Burgundies and Tuscan classicos.

Perspective Dining is now open to the public. Contact and booking details can be found over in the Stumble Guide.