Ryan Squires, Owner, Esquire
Success comes in all forms. Only you can be the judge of your own success ...
While local chef Ryan Squires spent the formative years of his career in some of the finest kitchens around the world, including stints at elBulli in Spain and The French Laundry in California, he found it difficult to resist the lure of his hometown. Since making his return to Brisbane, Ryan has become an integral part of the local gastronomic fabric, known for his creative approach to cooking that is drawn from his array of worldly culinary experiences. Now at the helm of Esquire, Brisbane’s only three-hat restaurant, Ryan continues to challenge conventional notions of dining by providing inventive degustation dining experiences. Before he stepped into the kitchen to prepare for this weekend’s service, Ryan sat down with The Weekend Edition to chat about his favourite weekend rituals.
How do you like to start your weekend?
This all depends on the restaurant and what sort of a week ending it was for me. Sometimes a quick surf or swim, sometimes all papers at once, drinking coffee in the sun with a bagel. But then sometimes I’ll be in my thinking spot, thinking …
What’s your favourite thing to do on a Saturday morning?
Check the surf, then look at the random houses for sale across the country in The Weekend Australian Magazine, read the restaurant reviews and carry on by calling the trawlers to see what has been caught.
How do you like to unwind?
I have difficulties doing this unless it’s for more than a couple of days. On the water in my non-existent boat would be ideal. Or down at Byron Bay – I have a friend who owns a bed and breakfast – or I’ll see my new mate Lance ‘the unwind king’ in the hills of Byron for some meditation and yoga.
What are your essentials for a well-spent weekend?
A beautiful companion, a gorgeous location, random exciting activities, sun, good clean surf, no texting or calls, lots of fish, the Queensland Reds or the Wallabies playing, animals everywhere and someone saying ‘that haircut really suits you’ and ‘by the way where did you get those pants?’.
What’s something you’ve been meaning to do on the weekend but haven’t got around to yet?
I’ve had this desire to carve a massive trunk into an outrigger. I’ve just started on a new art piece for Esquire – the problem is that it’s seven metres long, heavy and very awkward.
What’s your favourite thing to do on a Sunday evening?
Enjoy a bottle of wine and lengthy chats with a good friend at Beccofino, Teneriffe.
What are you looking forward to next weekend?
I’m not sure if I’m allowed to tell, but it involves driving to Noosa and giving my two bob’s worth to a major organisation on food and produce in Australia.
What are you reading at the moment?
This guy gave me two books a while ago on yachting – one is called Fatal Storm and I’m just about done.
What inspires you?
Travel and art.
What was your childhood dream?
To play for the Wallabies and own a hotel.
What has been your greatest achievement?
Probably Esquire being one of eight three-hat restaurants in Australia and the only one in Queensland, or working at some of the world’s best restaurants, I’m not sure. Having a relationship for more than four months is perhaps an achievement as well.
What is success to you?
Success comes in all forms. Only you can be the judge of your own success. It could be simply beating a bad habit.
What are your words of wisdom?
If you do not change direction, you will end up where you are going.
Only a local would know … there is no such thing as a fresh Moreton Bay Bug.
FAVOURITE WEEKEND SPOT TO:
Perk up … Ugees, West End.
Relax … At home.
Dine … Breakfast at The Crosstown Eating House, lunch at Providore at Marina Mirage, dinner at Harajuku Gyoza.
Indulge … The Byron at Byron Bay.
Shop … Dirtbox, Scotch & Soda, Aquila and Coles.
Catch-up … The Regatta, Toowong.
Be inspired … GOMA, MONA and travelling.
