Kakutaro Kubo, Sake master, Ippongi Sake Brewery

When you’ve done 90%, think it is still halfway ...

The rich history stretching behind Japan’s traditional drink is nothing but a bedtime story for third-generation sake master, Kakutaro Kubo. Fortunate enough to be born into the family who founded the Ippongi Sake Brewery in the foothills of Fukui in 1902, Kakutaro is now considered an expert on the liquid elixir, traipsing across the globe to educate drinkers on the art of brewing and sake’s role within Japanese culture. While in Australia to conduct a special sake masterclass at Rosalie’s Moga Izakaya & Sushi last week, Kakutaro took five with The Weekend Edition to chat inspirations and childhood dreams.

Describe yourself in ten words …
I look young but I’m old enough to drink sake …

What’s your earliest memory of the family business?
At midnight of New Year’s Eve in 1978, when I was three years old, my father took me to the Katsuyama Shrine, along with his employees, to dedicate a barrel of sake to the shrine and the people of Katsuyama. This annual ceremony has taken place through all generations of my family. It means that we celebrate and offer thanks for the harvest of sake rice and successful sake brewing for that year.

What was your childhood dream – did you always plan to work in the brewery?
I wanted to be a firefighter when I was a little. There was a jinx in our family, that fire accidents often affected the head of family, so I thought I needed to become a firefighter to stop the misfortune.

Ippongi sake is famed for its purity in both taste and fragrance, what’s the secret formula?
The most important thing is not to cut corners when cleaning in the factory. Also, to do your best in every step of the process.

What do you love about your work?
When I’m at a sake spot and the person sitting next to me is drinking our sake, and he looks very happy!

What are some things Brisbane locals may not know about sake?
Japanese sake is not an exotic beverage like everyone thinks. It shouldn’t be served so hot that you can’t touch the cup – it should be enjoyed cold, room temperature and warm. The aroma and taste vary widely, and the taste changes slightly every year. Also, sake can be matched to a very wide range of dishes – not only Japanese food but all kinds of food.

What has been your greatest achievement?
My sake has reached the point of being imported and enjoyed in Australia, which is so far away from my home. Today, we’re importing Ippongi sake to Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada, England, Switzerland, UAE, China, Korea, Malaysia and Singapore.

How do you like to start your weekend?
With thick plum kobu tea. It’s a good one to help you recover from drinking the night before!

What are your essentials for a well-spent weekend?
I’m happy to be able to sleep in late on the weekend and there’s a public bath near my house, where I often go to relax.

What’s something you’ve been meaning to do on the weekend but haven’t got around to yet?
One day, I would like to walk from Kyoto to Tokyo, along the 53 stages of the Tokai Route. In the past when transportation wasn’t as developed as it is today, people travelled from Kyoto to Tokyo on foot, staying overnight at some of the 53 spots. It’s approximately 500 km – about a two-week trip – and most of the stopping points still exist today.

What’s your favourite thing to do on a Sunday evening?
Go to the public bath house near my house and sit in the big bathtub!

What are you reading at the moment?
I write for Ippongi’s magazine, which we publish every three months. Therefore, for research purposes, I’ve been reading about what kinds of parties the shoguns had!

What inspires you?
Autumn and winter are the busiest seasons for us. Seeing my team working hard inspires me a lot.

What is success to you?
I still don’t know what success is for me … Someday in the future, when I hand the baton over to someone who will be taking over my position, I think I might be able to feel that I did well.

What are your words of wisdom?
When you’ve done 90%, think it is still halfway.

FAVOURITE WEEKEND SPOT TO:
Relax …
 A hot bath.
Dine … Two Artisans restaurant. The husband is a sushi chef and the wife is an Italian chef, so they always have very creative dishes!
Shop … Bookstores.

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