James Guldberg, Chef consultant, Chef & Co

Do what you love and don’t be scared to take a few calculated risks ...

Wind back the memory to your days as a 16-year-old and the ways in which you filled them. Chances are, you weren’t slipping on a chef’s apron and stepping into a commercial kitchen for the first day of your new career. It takes a certain kind of person to know exactly what they want and how to get it at such a young age; but when you’ve got a natural knack for cooking like Brisbane’s James Guldberg, life simply couldn’t be any other way. This early foray into the industry was followed by spells in some of our city’s most esteemed restaurants, from Piaf and Sardine Tin to The Survey Co. and Aquitaine Brasserie. James’ story has now taken another interesting turn, with the launch of his new consultancy business, Chef & Co. The role sees James lending his expertise to dining venues around Brisbane, helping shape them into respected destinations and positive contributions to the local food scene. The Weekend Edition was fortunate enough to catch the chef between appointments to talk local growers and emerging food trends.

How would you describe the local food scene right now? Is there anything you’d like to see more of?
In recent years, we’ve seen a rise of middle market places growing in popularity, especially in outer suburbs. Also, consumers are more aware and they want to know where your produce is coming from and how it’s prepared. They’re also in touch with issues around animal welfare, sustainability and eating healthy, seasonal and local produce, which I think is really positive.

You’re passionate about sourcing quality local ingredients – can you share some regional growers we should be supporting?
Midyim Eco Produce: Richard grows peppers in Conondale in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. My favourite is the padron pepper, which is a little green pepper originating from the northwest of Spain. It’s sweet, delicate and illusive with its heat, as some are hot and some are not.
Hinterland Crops and Crafts: Kim and Owen grow amazing zucchini flowers in Landsborough. They’re picked and delivered the same day, arriving like little yellow trumpets.
Glasshouse Gourmet Snails: This is the first and only commercial snail farm in Queensland, and they cultivate the helix aspersa, or common brown garden snail. They’re delivered live and have a wonderful earthy, delicate flavour.
Clarks Mushrooms: Trevor at Woombye grows the best Swiss brown, field and button mushrooms, which are picked in the morning and delivered in the afternoon.

Which other talented local chefs are ones to watch?
Joshua Lawson, previously my sous chef at Piaf, has taken over as chef/owner at Two Small Rooms in Toowong.

You’re hosting a dinner party and can invite any five people in the world – who’s on the list, and what would you cook for them?
I’d invite Anthony BourdainMarco Pierre White and Magnus Nilsson from Fäviken because they’re industry icons, Russell Brand for a laugh, and my wife Erinn because we love hosting dinner parties together. Food wise, I’d like to showcase some of the local highlights from Brisbane and surroundings areas. I’d go to Brisbane Northside Produce to collect some live game birds, which I’d slaughter and prepare myself (thanks to some recent training by my wife’s grandmother). I’d also have an array of vegetables – some from my garden and others from local suppliers, rich sauces and complementing condiments. Basically a homely style feast of sorts!

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
A farmer. I love watching things grow, especially when they can be consumed at the end.

You started your career at the age of 16. What drew you to the industry and what can you remember about stepping into a commercial kitchen for the first time?
I always knew I wanted to be a chef. I first got a taste for kitchens from doing work experience, which rolled into a school-based apprenticeship. I loved the rush of a good service – and I still do! The first day was actually quite daunting … I was surrounded by some scary cooks and chefs much older than me. But I really took to the fast-paced environment, doing anything and everything that was asked.

You’ve worked alongside some of our city’s greatest food names, such as Montrachet’s Thierry Galichet and Baguette’s Bruno Loubet. What’s been the most memorable experience so far?
When I was working for Thierry at Montrachet, he took me down to Sydney as his second chef for a week. He was guest chef at Sofitel Wentworth showcasing his classical French cuisine – it was loads of fun.

What inspired you to launch your new consultancy, Chef & Co?
I enjoy the challenge of being part of something new and building kitchens from the ground up. I like the process of turning an idea into reality and being able to provide damage control to a business that isn’t doing as well as it could be.

What does the role of a chef consultant involve?
To address the operational side of the kitchen, whether it be just a concept for a new place or an established venue. The specific requirements may differ between businesses, but the end goal is to help the business to achieve its potential. We help with all facets of kitchen operation, including kitchen design, recruitment and training of staff, and developing menus, whilst also providing ongoing support. I’m also working on expanding the business into cooking private dinners for people in their homes.

What are the best and worst things about being a chef?
Being a chef is a great career – it’s impossible to know everything and there’s always plenty to learn. It’s an exciting, creative and rewarding industry, particularly when working in a team with other passionate people. On the downside, cheffing can be stressful, which, in turn, can take a toll physically and mentally. I’ve learnt that having a good balance in life increases longevity and productivity.

What’s your all-time favourite dish to cook?
Bouillabaisse, which originates from Marseille in France. This rustic, peasant, seafood fish soup is packed with saffron, tomato and pastis, and is a delight to prepare and eat.

How do you like to start your weekend?
Getting up early and spending time in the garden with my daughter, Sophia, before preparing a family breakfast together.

How do you like to unwind?
Taking my bike out for a cycle around Brisbane and making stops to pick fresh herbs and edible flowers from my secret spots here and there.

What is success to you?
To achieve the goals you set out to accomplish and to do them well. Definitely being happy and healthy within yourself and family is important. Also, knowing that you’re doing the very best that you can.

What are your words of wisdom?
Do what you love and don’t be scared to take a few calculated risks.

FAVOURITE WEEKEND SPOT TO:

Perk up … Bunker, Milton.
Relax … Camping at Binna Burra.
Dine … La Via, South Bank.
Indulge … Baby back ribs at South Side Diner, South Bank.
Shop … Paddington Antique Centre.
Catch-up … Eat Street Markets, Hamilton.
Be inspired … PCYC Gym, Paddington.

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