In late 2019, popular Wilston brunch spot Freja’s announced it would be metamorphosis in 2020 – relaunching as Elska – a 12-seat degustation restaurant – in early February. The following year, owners Freja Rasmussen and chef Nathan Dunnell decided to relocate the concept, snagging a spot on Merthyr Road in New Farm for Elska to continue to grow. Nathan (alongside sous chef Lauren Kinne) is dipping into his fine-dining background to create modern-Australian fare using Nordic-inspired cooking techniques and native and local produce. The goal is to take diners on a journey, educating guests on flavours and techniques across a succession of dishes, plating up the likes of kangaroo and wallaby paired with fermented and pickled morsels. Elska (an old Nordic name meaning love) boasts an aesthetic inspired by hygge – a Danish and Norwegian term for cosiness and comfort – with wood, white and stylishly minimal decorative touches creating an elegant and intimate dining experience. James Horsfall has joined the Elska team as sommelier, bringing a curatorial ethos that favours interesting small producers creating technically correct drops.