Can you tell us when and how you first got into surfing – we heard your dad used to take you and your brother out in the ’50s?
We were introduced to the ocean at an early age by our parents Margaret and John. Dad was very adventurous and would give most things a go, so my brother Robye and I would be added to everything that was happening. He was involved with the SLSC movement at a young age so we got that connection as well. In 1960 during the September holidays, Dad hired the then ‘new addition’ to the beach scene – the foam and fibreglass surfboard. He pushed us on to a couple of waves. We didn’t know it then but we were about to become addicts to this new form of riding waves!

What’s the best wave/break you’ve ever ridden?
There are a lot of ‘best waves’ around the world and along with Colleen, my wife, we have been able to sample some of those waves. Growing up in Coolangatta in the 50’s and 60’s was amazing and add the fact of being a surfer or ‘Surfie’ as we were known by the older generation then, was a bonus. There was a lot of sand on the beaches in Coolangatta back then but in 67′ there was back-to-back cyclone swells that hit the east coast removing large amounts of sand from the beaches. We had surfed Kirra many times before this on Mals and these memories would soon fade as the next three decades produced the commonly referred to “Worlds Best Wave” at Kirra. It was Nirvana. Ten to 20 second tube rides were to be ridden at this location, so to have it within walking distance of where we lived was heaven.

You’ve achieved many great things as a surfer, a dad and a boardmaker, but what in your life are you most proud of?
Being able to give Colleen and our family a house to live in and having built it ourselves makes it a special place. There are many salvaged pieces of Coolangatta and surrounding areas contained in our home, which give it a good feel.

Surfers often talk about that feeling you get when you’re riding a wave. How would you describe it?
Mental and physical therapy. It is a sanity fix because it involves water.

How have surfing styles changed since the early days kicking around Kirra with your brother?
From surfing longer boards with style and grace to flying in the sky and everything in between! Surfing waves like riding a skateboard, skirfing (boat surfing), Tow in, it’s all there now.

Out of the water there’s a definite trend where everything old is new again. Is this also true for surfboard designs?
It’s like a lot of things in the world, architecture, fashion, motorcycles, cooking, to name a few. Designers get old and new ones come along with little knowledge or concept so references to the past are made via print or magazines. Surfboard design is no different. I noticed a post by Mick Fanning the other day with reference to a board design that his shaper had put together. It’s straight out of the 80’s, so yeah everything old is new again.

You gave world champ Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew his first board. Can you tell us about that?
Our Dad had just bought the latest ‘thing’ in the building trade, a Power Planer. It was 1967 and Robye and myself are both carpenters so we thought we knew a few things about building stuff. Our mate George Hopkins surfed with us in those days but he had started fishing more and doing other things. His board was at our place and while Dad was at golf one day, a hasty decision was made. We thought it would be great to do a cut down (make a bigger board smaller). It was a 9′ 6″ “Ron” surfboard. Saw stools in the driveway, we stripped the glass off and away we went. I remember thinking holy shit this is harder than we thought. We ended up with a 7′ 6″ x 19 1/2″ – a toothpick compared to what we started with! We got on our pushies and went to ‘Merrins’ surfboard factory at 3 Sunshine Ave, south tweed to have it glassed. One of my all time favourite surfers Geoff “Bully” Arnold worked there glassing and making boards, so we asked him to do it. It cost us $20. Luckily for us, our parents were in the Lions Club and knew Bart and Betty Bartholomew, and through that connection we learned that Wayne was learning to surf and didn’t have a board. Mum contacted Betty. They were living at Rainbow Bay in a little house named ‘The Ranch’. Rab was 13, I’m 15, Robye’s 16 and we turn up with the board in tow. Blonde hair, buckteeth, and a smile from ear to ear, Rab was gone as well.

You’ve been a pretty big advocate to restore the Kirra break to its glory days. Can you share with us your favourite memory from Kirra?
It has to be about the barrels/kegs/tubes that Kirra is famous for. There are a couple of waves that are transfixed in my brain. I can visually refer to them at any time because they were so amazing. I was shaping my own boards by this stage, still a carpenter, Rab was getting good too, he was riding a Dick Van Strallen single fin about 6’6″ in length around 72′. I borrowed his board to make something similar. It was my first attempt at a board that short. It worked but was hard to ride. One afternoon after work there was a small east swell running around three-to-five foot. With this type of swell at Kirra it used to warp and bend and wobble down the bank. The tide was heading low. It was March and it was getting late so I was looking for that wave in. A shoulder-high twister comes my way. I barely make the drop. My board is hard to ride, the sun is golden by this stage, I’m in the barrel and instantly it has a big bend in it. All I can see is a golden tunnel with no exit. You just keep going at Kirra to see what happens. It spat me out about 10 to 15 seconds later. One of those waves you should never make. It was ridiculous! It’s in my brain forever.

What or who inspires you?
Colleen. People who do good things. Honesty and humility.

What’s next for the future of surfing?
I really don’t know. Obviously more people will start to enjoy its magic. There are still places being discovered which is amazing. New materials, new discoveries, I guess we’ll know the answer when the oil runs out.

Earlier this year Kelly Slater infamously branded Snapper one of the busiest and most dangerous breaks in the world. What are your thoughts on the situation out in the water?
Since the inception of ‘TRESBP’, Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypass Project, waves in the Coolangatta area (especially Snapper) have become more consistent because of the sand being delivered to the point more consistently. Add to that surf cams, mobile phones, the Quiksilver Pro, cheap flights, Chinese imports, Thailand imports, 50-odd board builders, and there you have a recipe for chaos. Make it easy to get out in warm water with every modern convenience and aggressive aggro people created by the commercial world – it all adds to the scene. People need to chill out and have some respect. Hey, I’ve been at fault, more than once, going off in the water at people that should not be out there getting in the way. It’s a small area to fit 200 to 400 people! People need to know their ability and not surf there when it’s not possible for them to handle the waves. It’s always been crowded, especially on the weekends. Don’t be a hog.

Your son Noa is making waves on the circuit. Any advice for groms looking to make a living from surfing?
The thing about being a grom and making a living out of surfing is to be positive, but you gotta be prepared to work at it. Sometimes it depends on who you know, who your parents know, timing and ability. If it’s not competitive, there’s always the industry side, surfboards, retail clothing, training, surf schools and surf travel. The world is always changing. Getting street-skills and worldly knowledge is important so you understand how it all operates. With the top level competitive side and the way its structured now less that 1% from any given area make it to the top. That’s not to say it can’t be done, work out what you like to do and try to stay happy with it. Life is good here but the cost is getting crazy for the average person, be prepared to talk to older people who have been ‘through the mill’. The one thing to remember is to keep surfing, if you can.

FAVOURITE WEEKEND SPOT TO
Relax … Usually in the surf or on the deck at our place with Col and Yogi our dog.
Eat … Col’s kitchen! She cooks great food. Seafood, good pies, Mexican – most food!
Be inspired … Shaping a new board knowing that we are going on a trip somewhere.