Long weekend: Moreton Island
Long weekend: Moreton Island

Long weekend: Moreton Island

As the 4WD rolls off the ferry and onto the sand, shoulders relax, lungs exhale and our minds click into Island Time. Moreton Island may only be a short skip across the bay, but it’s surprising how seldom we make the commitment to leave the mainland and flee east. So this time, we’re doing it right. Watches are slipped off, mobile phones ferreted away and technology farewelled for three days immersed in nature.

The promise of a Gatorade-green ocean and endless stretches of sandy beaches swirl about in our imaginations as we check off the to-pack list, turn the lock in the front door and hit the highway in anticipation of a long weekend of freedom.

Like children rising early on Christmas morning, the appeal of three days with the sand between our toes sees us waking with the sun and hopping into the hired 4WD before the city has had a chance to kick into motion. A brief pause at Morningside’s The Blue Poppy rewards us with mini Danishes and much-needed caffeine, before continuing on our way to the Moreton Island MICAT ferry terminal at the Port of Brisbane. As the seafaring beast churns through the blue of Moreton Bay, the sandy dunes of our island destination appear before us like a mirage. And we remember to breathe.

Measuring around 38 km long and 10 km at its widest point, Moreton Island is the third largest sand island in the world. From stunningly clear lagoons to fields of wildflowers and undulating sand dunes, the landscape is a natural adventure playground, and you need not spend a penny to keep yourself entertained for a weekend. The island was crafted by Mother Nature over thousands of years as sand was pushed about due to wind and waves and changing sea levels. Around 95% of the island is dedicated national park, so bushwalkers and birdwatchers can sate their senses as they amble along the island’s many walking tracks, such as Rous Battery and Telegraph.

This is, however, the place you want a 4WD. When the sun is shining and school is out, the sandy strips near the water’s edge imitate the Bruce Highway as trucks and utes grunt their way from one seaside spot to the next. Heads and limbs jostle about inside our 4WD, threatening whiplash as our road-tripping soundtrack battles to be heard above uncontrollable chuckling. Not even the occupational hazard of a sand bogging can dampen our spirits, as friendly folk gather to aid our rescue mission. A bit of banter and elbow grease later, the wheels are back on the sand and we can continue our explorations.

With the Moreton Island National Park and Recreation Area map as our guide, we spend the day trekking across the island, from the sheltered Honeymoon Bay and Cape Moreton in the north to the Little Sandhills and Reeders Point in the south. Scuba diving envy strikes as we make do with snorkels, which – thanks to a visible abundance of sealife – lead to surprisingly positive results. There are many points at which you can launch your underwater mission, from the famous Tangalooma wrecks to the Curtin artificial reef and Flinders coral reef. It’s an incredible sunset but we pull ourselves from the water just before feeding time, and watch as the setting sun throws sparks of gold at the silhouettes of the fishermen lining the shore.

With sunburn nipping at our shoulders and eyelids heavy, we make our way to our campsite to settle in for the night. While some may prefer the option of glamping or sleeping in luxury at Tangalooma Island Resort, we ‘eeny meeny miny moed’ the many camping zones dotted across the island and opted for Blue Lagoon.

The following two days are spent in much the same way, exploring the peaks and pits of the island until our bodies are so exhausted they simply fall into the blow-up mattress like it’s a bed of feathers. From tobogganing down the dunes at breakneck speeds to snapping the camera lens across the coloured sands, we tap into newfound adoration for the tiny granules sprinkled across the island. And of course, no trip to Moreton would be complete without making friends of the bottlenose dolphins at Tangalooma. We get waist deep and handfeed the pod in the shallows, becoming utterly charmed by their unique personalities in the process.

We may have been camping, but that didn’t mean our diets were restricted to baked beans and toasted marshmallows. Amongst camping-friendly fare like barbecue mango cheeks with lamb and grilled peaches, we also set time aside to sample the local venues, feasting on fresh seafood and cold beers from The Gutter Bar and refuelling with the legendary Sunday breakfast at Castaways Restaurant in Bulwer.

Moreton Island is the kind of holiday idyll where time bends, moving both fast and slow. Hours stretch on and on, and days melt into evenings as we sip wine and nibble at cheese while overlooking the bay; but when the time comes to depart, we realise it’s all flown by too quickly. Seventy-five minutes aboard the ferry and the Brisbane skyline rises up to meet us once again. It’s a warm greeting, for sure, but also the signal that the technology ban and escape from reality is over. Lucky that island oasis is only a boat ride away.

Find more information about Moreton Island here.

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