The stories are in the details … The bespoke leather menus and booths created by a past employee, while the recipe for the cannoli was handed down through five generations of chef James Guldberg’s wife’s family. And then there’s the positioning in Burnett Lane itself – named after English surveyor and explorer James Charles Burnett (1815–1854) who was appointed to Brisbane’s first survey office to map out what is now Southeast Queensland.

Paying homage to Burnett’s occupation and the laneway it now calls home, The Survey Co. quietly opened its doors less than a week ago, but the crowds are already lining up to savour the gourmet-yet-homely fare. Presenting a carefully curated menu of simple, unpretentious dishes that tease tastebuds as aromas waft from the exposed kitchen, the food plays on Scandinavian and rustic European roots.

Separated into a maze of a bar, dining and courtyard sections, with an old lift converted into a secluded drinking nook, the impressive industrial design weaves textures and shapes of concrete, brick, cork and metal, utilising aspects of the 100-year-old building’s original form. Stepping into the outdoor courtyard is like entering another world – tranquil, but sure to become a lively spot come 5:00 pm.

Try the Shooters Sandwich with Piccalilli for lunch – an old-style English sandwich of seared rib fillet in a hollowed-out cob loaf, traditionally prepared by wives for their hunter husbands. The single malts confirm a romanticism for old-world charm, while The Laneway Lemonade cocktail of tequila, lemon, sugar and thyme reinstates diners in the hip laneway-slinking present.

Our pick: Beetroot Ravioli with Goats Curd and Horseradish to start, Traditional Bouillabaisse with Rouille and Bread as a main, and Lavender Parfait with Berries and Candied Lemon for dessert.

Check out The Survey Co. on The Street Photographer.