Takashi Nami nearly left Brisbane to work in another city. After a stint at short-lived gourmet marketplace Mercado, the heralded sushi chef (who boasts 40 years working in restaurants across Japan and Australia) cast his eye towards other markets. If it wasn’t for his vocal Brisbane-based following – who dissuaded him from moving south – we wouldn’t now have one of this city’s most intriguing foodie arrivals. Instead of relocating, Takashi decided to back himself and open up his own restaurant Shishou – a sushi degustation spot inspired by omakase and kappo-style of dining popular in Japan. Kappo (translated as ‘to cut and to cook’) and omakase essentially entails a multi-course experience left up to the chef – a more informal style than kaiseki cuisine, but no less special and entrancing. Such eateries are usually small, boasting a handful of seats and an intimate atmosphere. Emboldened by the success of Bakery Lane ten-seater Joy (and once more encouraged by his supporters), Takashi felt confident that Brisbane diners would be receptive to this bespoke style of dining. The ideal spot presented itself on Brunswick Street in the former home of The American Diner Co., though the space is now unrecognisable as Takashi and his team have overhauled the venue into a clean, minimal and tranquil oasis. A blonde timber counter seats 12, where diners can perch and watch the master at work, with the venue’s spartan aesthetic perfectly suited to direct all attention to the food itself.

Upon arrival, guests will be presented with their choice of ornate chopsticks and a concise menu offering three options – an eight, 12 or 15-piece omakase nigiri sushi experience, each complete with char-grilled entrees, seafood miso soup and a Japanese and French fusion dessert. Chef Takashi will carefully cook and present each round one at a time and present it to diners in waves, allowing time for each morsel to be savoured before presenting the next item. The menu options are likely to change often, as Takashi sources as much of his produce daily and tailors each service around ingredient availability. On any given night, guests can savour artfully presented dishes made from the likes of coral trout, bonito and Kagoshima wagyu beef with a marble score of 12+. Morsels such as miso-glazed black cod and nigiri layered with foie gras and truffle are several notches above the standard California roll, but this is to be expected as Takashi takes pride in using the best ingredients across all aspects. From the base elements of Niigata rice and red vinegar to the finishing touches of caviar and sea urchin, there’s nothing standard here. Throughout the experience, diners will be treated to three rounds of Tavalon tea – a welcoming tea boasting notes of summer fruits, a genmaicha tea (green tea mixed with roasted popped brown rice) served alongside nigiri, and a refreshing cool-mint tea to finish. Shishou’s drinks list features a selection of French wines and champagne, plum wine and shochu, as well as a strong sake selection available in 150ml and 720ml servings. As Shishou is still in its soft-opening phase, only the short-course option is available, though this is set to change in the coming weeks.

Shishou is now open to the public. For opening hours and booking details, head to the Stumble Guide.