Brisbane culinary institution Moda begins new chapter in Petrie Terrace
Javier Codina’s Spanish-inspired restaurant Moda has been a fixture of Brisbane dining scene for so long that it’s practically become a foundational piece of architecture. After eight years on Edward Street, Moda has uprooted operations and planted itself in a new space at the main juncture of Petrie Terrace and Caxton Street – styling itself as Moda Tapas Brasa Bar. While not seeking to reinvent the flavours that made Moda popular in the first place, Javier is committed to sewing seeds of evolution, expanding Moda’s offering at its new home and cementing it as a top-tier dining destination for years to come.
Moda’s recent move from its hallowed inner-city home has been two years in the making. Javier Codina, along with general manager François Le Savéant, sought a new headquarters that could offer room to adapt to Brisbane’s evolving tastes while maintaining Javier’s reputation for quality cuisine – one forged over a 20-year career. After announcing the closure of Moda’s Edward Street home at the tail-end of September, Javier soon revealed that the would be moving to the former Police Barracks Stable on Petrie Terrace – a heritage-listed spot once home to seminal nightclub The Underground and more recently Burnt Ends Kitchen & Bar. Encased by rustic brick walls and illuminated by warm overhead lighting, the venue proved perfectly suitable for Javier’s brand of honest, brasserie-inspired cuisine. A sizeable bar and casual-dining area flows through to the main dining room, where plush leather booths and moodily lit tables are afforded an uninterrupted view of the kitchen. Decorative touches from Moda’s original location have been brought over to Petrie Terrace as well, including old mirrors, furnishings and the restaurant’s colourful crockery.
Long-time fans of Javier’s cooking will still find plenty of Moda signatures on the menu (and some missing classics can be ordered upon request). The restaurant’s menu is divided into three sections – small bites, larger shareable entremeses and sizeable brasa dishes. Diners can opt for a quick drink and a nibble on reef fish ceviche and wild-rabbit pie at the bar, or sit down to a feast of lamb shoulder with capsicum chutney, squid-ink rice with Western Australian scampi, Flinders Island wallaby or zucchini flowers with salmon mousse. A MIBRASA charcoal oven has been installed in the kitchen to cook Moda’s range of ember-fired proteins and vegetables – think Black Onyx tomahawks, roasted spatchcock, veal fiorentina, pork ribs and heirloom cauliflower. While the dynamics of the cuisine will always remain the same, Javier’s penchant for tweaking on the fly with freshly sourced seasonal ingredients (Javier visits produce markets daily) will mean the menu is constantly shifting. Those after a personal touch can sit down for Javier’s Table Experience, which will see the chef personally prepare three courses of signature dishes for the table. A drinks list is chock-full of niche labels, with wines from Spain and South America available alongside boutique Australian drops, cocktails and beer. A private dining space also doubles as a boutique bottle shop, where Moda’s niche selection of wines are available for purchase.
Moda Tapas Brasa Bar opened on Tuesday October 9. For opening hours and contact details, head over to the Stumble Guide.
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