Hungarian-inspired street sweets and slab cakes abound at West End newcomer Kürtősh
Just when you think you’ve sampled every kind of baked goodie or dessert under the sun, a new variety or two will pop up to tantalise your tastebuds. Kürtősh, a Sydney-born purveyor of slab cakes, cookies and pastries, opened at West Village just before Christmas, showcasing its range of delectable delights made using time-tested family recipes – including some eye-catching (and drool-worthy) options inspired by the street-food scene of Hungary!
When Kürtősh first emerged on St Pauls Street in Randwick, Sydney a decade ago, it started with humble goals. This patisserie-style concept simply wanted to be a second home for its guests – a comfortable escape where folks could take a moment for themselves and enjoy a small delight from one of the venue’s loaded confection cabinets. While this approach certainly helped Kürtősh make a great first impression with locals, it was its cakes, pastries and desserts – all conceived from beloved family recipes – that help build the brand’s popularity to the point where it now boasts eight locations across Australia. Kürtősh’s newest site (and first Brisbane locale) can be found at West Village, perched at the entrance to Peter’s Lane (opposite fellow newcomer Anita Gelato) – the bustling strip at the shopping and dining hub’s epicurean epicentre. Alongside Antia Gelato, Kürtősh ties together the precinct’s food offering (which already encompasses Italian, Lebanese, Japanese, brunch, burgers and poke) with a dreamy dessert destination perfect for sugar seekers. The aesthetic is warm and welcoming, with homely touches like communal dining tables and curved timber banquettes helping to create a laid-back and approachable feel for curious carb lovers. No matter where you sit – inside the Kürtősh’s cosy confines or among its scattering of alfresco tables, your attention will likely gravitate to the venue’s gleaming treats cabinet and dessert-making counter, where the venue’s true magic is on display.
The name Kürtősh is inspired by the iconic Hungarian chimney cake, kürtőskalács. This traditional pastry (a staple of the country’s street-food scene) typically sees sweet dough coiled around a rolling pin, brushed with butter and cooked over a charcoal spit until caramelised. The crispy outside – often coated in sugar, nuts or Nutella – shields a softer, bready centre, with the entire carby contraption designed to be pulled apart, uncoiled and consumed inch-by-inch. Although Kürtősh is not a Hungarian bakery, the chimney cake has become a signature item on the menu – one end of Kürtősh’s dessert counter is dedicated to the creation of these treats, with guests free to gawk at the staff through windows as they gently twine the dough, bake it and coat it to order. Speaking of gawking, the cake cabinet is stacked with an assortment of eye candy to admire. Kürtősh also specialises in slab cakes – giant cakes that are portioned out by weight (portions can be as little as 20-gram servings or a kilo), allowing guests to have as much as of one that they can consume or try a variety of flavours. The cake range encompasses 21 flavours (plus rotating specials), including the likes of sticky apple and walnut, flourless chocolate cake, hazelnut truffle slab, peanut butter ganache and raspberry cheesecake, to name a few. The patisserie’s offering also includes heart-shaped puff-pastry palmiers, savoury pastries, chocolate fudge cookies, brandy balls, biscotti, babka loaves and more. A coffee counter at the rear of the space is where you’ll be able to grab a cup of delicious specialty brew (Kürtősh serves a medium roast house blend made in collaboration with a Sydney roastery that is delicious black or served with milk) or tea from TeaCraft.
Kürtősh is now open to the public seven days a week. Head to the Stumble Guide for operating hours and web links.
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