Recent years have seen Eagle Street Pier undergo a changing of the guard, of sorts. The popular riverside precinct has become home to some hot new names, many of which have taken over sites formerly occupied by eateries that helped popularise Eagle Street as a dining go-to. In October, Andrew Baturo took over Pony Dining and transformed it into Thai party palace Naga, and early next year the site of Italian restaurant Il Centro will become home to Happy Fat’s new COPPA location. In 2019, second-generation restaurateur Michael Tassis – the torchbearer for Eagle Street’s current wave of evolution – opening Massimo Restaurant & Bar and Rico Bar & Dining in quick succession. This week marks the arrival of Michael’s newest venture Fatcow Steak & Lobster – an approachable fine diner that replaces lauded steakhouse Cha Cha Char, but looks to maintain its rep as source of primo protein. A refit of Cha Cha Char’s interior looks to help bring the venue in line with the precinct’s recent metamorphosis. Mirroring the approach that transformed Aria’s moody space into Rico’s tastefully airy aesthetic, Michael (alongside Clui Design and Tonic Projects) has sought to diverge from Cha Cha Char’s previous cosmetic configuration. The crew has ditched the masculine motifs, knocked down a few walls and let the sunshine fall upon a more approachable setting that is anchored by a newly constructed whisky bar and lounge space, which is configured to cater to pre-dinner snacking, more informal catch-ups or leisurely libation sipping.

As one can probably guess by the name, Fatcow Steak & Lobster’s menu (which is inspired by New York steakhouse classics) bridges two of our favourite food groups – surf and turf. The dichotomy is apparent from the outset, with entrees like prawn cocktails, seared scallops and lobster rolls sharing menu space with meaty starters like beef carpaccio, beef tartare and salumi boards (these eats are available as all-day bar snacks). These tantalising tasters are followed by larger plates, including swordfish with roasted potatoes, slow-cooked lamb shanks, woodfired wagyu sausages and some vegan- and vegetarian-friendly options, though we’re yet to reach the main event. A range of shellfish platters (the largest of which can cater to groups of six) come stacked with freshly shucked oysters, Mooloolaba king prawns, Moreton Bay bugs, Canadian scallops and black mussels, but it’s the West Australian and Tasmanian rock lobsters that will surely catch the eye of seafood seekers. These crustaceans come halved or whole, and are available chilled with condiments or woodfired and prepared in four different ways. Carnivores are encouraged to flip straight to Fatcow’s selection of woodfired beef, where they’ll find a collection of quality cuts – we’re talking wagyu rump cap with a marble score of nine-plus, a top-tier Satsuma wagyu striploin boasting a marble score of A5 12+ (the highest mark wagyu can attain), a whopping one-kilo T-bone and an ultra-luxe wagyu tomahawk. Each steak comes with your sauce of choice and a selection of premium sides, such as smoked butter mashed potato, baked mac’n’cheese (served with half a Moreton Bay bug, if you’re feeling fancy), creamed spinach, battered onion rings and cos salad. Save room for dessert – Fatcow’s sweet selection is headlined by the likes of Bombe Alaska, baked New York-style cheesecake and homemade pavlova. The restaurant’s drinks list (the entirety of which is available at the bar and dining in) encompasses more than 200 whisky labels, a selection of Australian and French wines (with a strong focus on Australian shiraz), some signature and classic cocktails, and much more.

Fatcow Steak & Lobster is now open to the public. For operating hours and contact details, hop over to the Stumble Guide.