Stellenbosch, South Africa
Excellent wine and award-winning food are descriptors of most good wine regions around the world, and Stellenbosch, in South Africa’s Western Cape just 50 km from Cape Town, is no exception. With a long and rich history that rivals most European wine regions, Stellenbosch has deep roots in Southern Hemisphere wine-making. But there is something else that the region offers that makes it truly memorable, and has you planning your return trip the moment you leave. Set amongst towering mountains and linking multiple fertile valleys, Stellenbosch’s spectacular scenery will take your breath away.
Driving over mountain passes that hug the ocean, en route from Cape Town to Stellenbosch for a romantic getaway with my boyfriend, I feel as though I couldn’t possibly see anything more beautiful on this spring day. But as we drive into Stellenbosch’s lush valley, flanked by enormous ancient mountains with high rocky peaks, and slopes covered with newly green vine leaves, I realise how presumptuous I have been.
The second-oldest city in South Africa, Stellenbosch’s wine history dates back almost as far as the city itself, with the first vines planted in the town in 1690. After a tumultuous history, and some neglect in the heart of the apartheid years, the region is now booming. Stellenbosch alone boasts 150 wine estates, with an additional 30 in neighbouring Franchhoek. Needless to say, it’s difficult to decide where our wine tasting tour should start, but the obvious kick-off point is our accommodation, a beautiful old wine estate called Lanzerac.
Located on the outskirts of Stellenbosch town, and boasting excellent old-world service and rooms housed in traditional Cape Dutch buildings, Lanzerac offers us an escape into another world. Upon arrival, we’re greeted with a choice of three ports, which are taken to our rooms for us to enjoy while settling in. Moments after we drink the last drop, a waiter arrives with a complimentary bottle of Cap Classique sparkling wine, the local version of Champagne using traditional French techniques. Flutes in hand, we make our way out to the gardens, and meander slowly through the lush greenery, eventually making our way to Lanzerac’s tasting room. There we start our official wine tour with an indulgent wine and chocolate tasting. I’m pleasantly surprised by how good the wine and chocolate taste together, and the experience climaxes with a final mouthwatering combination of honey liqueur placed in a small chocolate cup. It’s tempting to give in to our desires to stay and try the wine and cheese tasting, then retire to our room for some more port and a luxurious hot bath. But the mountains are calling, so we jump in the car and drive five minutes up the road to Tokara, a wine estate that exemplifies modern-day Stellenbosch.
Tokara is an interesting stop after the old-world charm of Lanzerac. A modern-art installation of a tree greets visitors on the approach to the building, and the entrance hallway showcases local artists’ work on one side, with glass walls offering a bird’s-eye view into the wine-making rooms on the other. As we enter the tasting room, my eyes are drawn to the windows framing stunning views out to the vineyards, before my gaze shifts to one of the largest fireplaces I’ve ever seen. We find a seat at the bar and sample a range of wines as well as brandy, which many of the local wineries also produce.
Next stop is across the road at Delaire Graff Estate, a winery revered for its architecture, beautiful views and award-winning restaurant. The steep driveway lined with indigenous flowering plants alludes to what lies ahead, but nothing could truly prepare us for the unique experience of Delaire. The Delaire Graff Estate is the culmination of all that is beautiful in the world – great wine, delicious food, luxurious and well-considered interior design and architecture, gorgeous landscaping and raw natural beauty. Sitting in plush purple lounge chairs under fluorescent green trees, with dappled sunlight illuminating the pinky hues of our rosés, we can’t help but be in awe of the abundance of beauty around us. Delaire is in a uniquely elevated position on the crest of the Helshoogte Mountain Pass, and its towering height allows us to see for kilometres down across the valley, surveying neighbouring wine estates and the eagles gliding in the mountain breeze looking for prey.
The next day, we stir from our slumber and find our way to an enormous breakfast buffet. It is the ultimate hangover cure but while sipping strong black coffees, we lament the end of our brief but enjoyable stay in Stellenbosch. We have only tried a few of the wine tastings available in this incredibly rich wine region, but as we leave down Lanzerac’s oak tree-lined driveway, I know it won’t be long until we’re back, quaffing, laughing, and breathing it all in.