Niseko, Japan
As an avid surfer and snowboarder, the idea of the perfect uncrowded wave or the waist-deep powder experience was starting to appear a distant memory. Summers spent fighting crowds for waves along the coastline of Australia were now the norm. And snowfalls in Australia and New Zealand, whilst enjoyable, did not live up to the buckets of powder snow I had once experienced in Whistler, Canada. Whether snowboarding or surfing, I was on the search for locations that could satisfy my cravings for the two sports I loved yet got little time to experience or enjoy to their full potential. In 2003, I heard about a snow resort in Japan called Niseko. At the time, the idea of snowboarding in Japan was not really on my radar. But soon it was hard to resist Niseko’s reputation for receiving some of the highest and best powder snowfalls in the world and the promise of uncrowded slopes.
It took me several years to make it to Niseko, and when I did get there what I found was nothing short of heaven – a snowboarder’s paradise. If your dream is to spend winter season upon winter season in one of the most stunning landscapes in the world, waist-deep in the fluffiest powder snow on Earth, and immersed in a wonderful cultural experience, Niseko, Japan is the place to make those dreams come true.
Located on the northern island of Hokkaido in Japan, Niseko is undoubtedly destined to become one of the chic resorts of Asia, following in the footsteps of global resorts such as Aspen and Whistler. Due to its stunning location and weather streams that come from Siberia rather than from eastern Japan, Niseko is blessed with a consistently high snowfall producing impressive amounts of dry powder snow. The snow is literally fluffy and light with very little moisture content. With up to 15 metres of fresh powder snow every season, falling daily, this compares favourably to the 13 metres recorded at even the snowiest resorts in North America and Europe.
The best way to get to Niseko is to fly into Tokyo and then catch a connecting flight to Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport. (Note that Haneda airport is the domestic airport in Tokyo whereas Narita is the international airport.) The flight from Haneda to Chitose takes about two hours and from Chitose Airport you can reach Niseko either by car, bus or train. It takes between two and three hours to get there depending on your mode of transport, but be warned that the bus does not run in the summer season.
Hirafu Village is the main village for the three ski resorts in the area, Niseko-Hirafu, Hiagashiyama, and Annupuri, of which Niseko-Hirafu is the largest. Hirafu is a charming small village and you can enjoy wandering around the streets with snow banks raising way above your head. The heart and soul of Hirafu Village is the Seicomart Convenience Store located on the main intersection in town. This is the only place in the village to stock up on food and all the necessary items you might need – fireworks included!
The first morning I woke to find over three feet of snow had landed overnight. With my heart beating madly and adrenalin rushing, I grabbed my gear and headed for the slopes. No queues were there to await me and before long, and true to media stories, I was waist deep in fluffy powder snow. To top it all off, I soon found out that Niseko Hirafu is one of few places in the world that offers seven-day-a-week night skiing until 9:00 pm – so no need to rush to the slopes in the morning.
At night, the village comes alive and is transformed from a cloud of white to a magical wonderland of brightly coloured lanterns and lights beaming from the oddest of locations. The smell of fireplaces fills the frosty air and people hustle and bustle from restaurants to bars whilst families build snowmen and revel in snowball fights.
Kutchan is the nearest town servicing Niseko Hirafu. You can find ski and board shops, cafes, 100-Yen shops and a large Max Value Supermarket. Only 20 minutes away by car, there are regular buses that take you into Kutchan. Like most places in Japan, even Tokyo, ATMs are hard to come by and when you do they most likely will not take foreign cards. Whilst many places accept credit card, it is wise to stock up on cash (the Post Office in Kutchan is where the only ATM machine is located). While you’re there, pop into Cafe Kaku and say ‘hi’ to Jo the Californian monk and hang out in his cosy cafe. It offers the best place for a great espresso and wood-fired pizza.
After a hard day’s powder riding, a visit to the Yukoro Onsen is a must. Traditionally a secret local thing, visitors are now discovering the recuperative powers of the Onsen. If you don’t mind being nude with your friends and soaking in some hot thermal waters (men and women in separate baths) this is the place to be. Ensure you follow local custom and show respect in the baths.
The view up towards Grand Hirafu ski area is impressive and the view behind with Mount Yotei rising up to the sky is mesmerising. At 1,898 metres, Mount Youtei provides a spectacular backdrop to the Niseko area – a truly breathtaking view when skiing or boarding. The 7,000-hectare area around the summit has been designated a national park.
Whilst the area has been transformed, in the past five years from a weekend Japanese resort to the early stages of an international resort, Niseko offers everything you need for a perfect ski holiday whilst still maintaining its charming village atmosphere. And it’s a place I will gladly now call home.
Photography by Aaron Jamieson