Chuck Hahn, brewmaster, Malt Shovel and Hahn Breweries
You know you've made it when you have your name on a beer bottle!
When that Brisbane air is prickling with humidity and sweat drops are materialising in the most dubious of places, it takes a local to understand the sweet relief an ice-cold beer can bring. From the second your paw wraps around a schooner to those last trickles of the amber elixir working their way down your throat, it’s a simple pleasure many of us know well. But the one man who could possibly outdo us with passion, is Dr Charles ‘Chuck’ Hahn, brewmaster for the Malt Shovel and Hahn Breweries. Having been born in New York and spending his childhood crossing the continents with his family, it was the Coors Brewery near Chuck’s Colorado university that would be the stimulus to set him on a career path that has consumed him for more than four decades. Chuck founded Hahn Brewing Company in Sydney in the late 1980s, which has since joined forces with Lion Nathan and launched the James Squire family of brands at the Malt Shovel Brewery as well as Kosciuszko Brewery. Just last month, James Squire teamed up with Brisbane’s Mantle Group to open The Charming Squire brewhouse and bistro. As Chuck popped into Brisbane to admire the South Bank venue last week, The Weekend Edition took the chance to chat to the brewing legend about all things beer.
What was the first alcoholic beverage that ever touched your lips?
Beer!
And now, after decades of hands-on experience, what’s your favourite thirst-quencher?
Probably a pilsner-style beer, such as the James Squires Four Wives Pilsener or Hahn Premium Pilsner. Of course, it depends a bit on the weather and the occasion. Our James Squires Hop Thief Ale is certainly becoming a favourite.
What about the best music to drink to?
Country western, of course.
Talk us through your personal favourite food and beer pairings …
Lamb shanks with garlic mash, along with a James Squires Nine Tales Amber Ale. Or a Thai stir-fry with the James Squires Pilsener.
We’ve heard you’re still very hands-on in the Malt Shovel Brewery. When you’re feeling exhausted, what motivates you to get out of bed and head back to the brewery for another day?
My passion for beer, and the opportunity to work with our team and brew even more interesting beers to enjoy and taste.
You’ve been at the helm of the national brewing industry for decades; how have you seen Australian tastes change during that time?
Back in the 1980s, beer choice was very limited and each state had their own regional beers. Fewer than 20 small breweries struggled to exist. Now consumers are demanding more variety in flavour and style in their beers, and we have more than 100 small craft breweries brewing some great beers. This interest in flavour has been driven over the last ten years by the popularity of various TV food shows like MasterChef. People now taste – rather than just drink – and they savour those flavours.
You have a PhD in chemical and petroleum engineering, but chose to focus on brewing at the age of 25 – what triggered that decision?
Brewing is a scientific art and is just an extension of good engineering principles. Art gives the flavour and uniqueness, and the engineering is required for the consistency in quality.
1988 was the wonderful year you opened Hahn Brewery. (On behalf of Australia, thanks!) Were you nervous, excited, or just a bit worried about the newfound ‘friends’ who might turn up on the brewery doorstep?
We were very excited at the response we received. Australia needed another brewer making premium international styles of beer domestically and serving it fresh.
Following a merger between Hahn and Lion Nathan in the early 1990s, Malt Shovel Brewery began working its magic in 1998, with a focus on handcrafting boutique beers under the James Squire name. What were your goals for the brand?
We’d established the Hahn brands across the country with the support of Lion. I gave up my job as chief brewer for Lion in order to return to my original Hahn Brewery in Camperdown to begin brewing ales and lagers in honour of James Squire, Australia’s first brewer. I assembled a team of passionate brewers – and the rest is history!
James Squire recently teamed up with Brisbane’s Mantle Group to launch The Charming Squire brewhouse and restaurant in South Bank. Can you share any insider knowledge on the beers brewed on-site?
Small breweries have the capability to brew small batches of specialty beers for their customers. In addition to supplying the full range of James Squires brews, The Charming Squire will be brewing some additional ales and small-batch seasonal releases.
What do you personally love about the new venue?
The venue brings together the ultimate beer experience: great beers, excellent foods, exceptional service and a well-presented building. I’m so pleased that the small brewery presents so well above the bar area; this, matched with the expertise of the Mantle Group and the passion of our brewers makes for uniqueness in dining and beer enjoyment.
What qualities do you think make a good brewer?
Passion for beer and a unique ability to taste and smell. A good scientific background is helpful, but practical experience is even more important.
How do you like to spend your downtime away from the brewery?
Snow skiing, swimming, travelling with my wife, visiting the grandchildren and working on various projects.
How do you personally define success?
When you can experience how the results of your work bring sociability and refreshment to others. You know you’ve made it when you have your name on a beer bottle!
FAVOURITE SPOT TO:
Relax … skiing in Vail and Beaver Creek in Colorado.
Indulge … with friends at my local.
Catch up … anywhere over a couple beers.
Be inspired … by getting up early and watching the sun rise over Coogee Beach.