The Catbird Seat Bistro opens in East Brisbane
The phrase ‘the catbird seat’ was first coined in the 1940s, found in a quirky short story entitled The Catbird Seat by American cartoonist and author James Thurber. Following publication, ‘the catbird seat’ became a way to describe someone in an enviable position, someone that was ‘sitting pretty’, like a batter with three balls and no strikes against him in baseball. The short story also became a British comedy film in 1959 dubbed The Battle of the Sexes and starring Peter Sellers – if you’re more into filmic history lessons than literature. Fast-forward to today, and the charm and character of the story has inspired chef James Guldberg and wife Erin in naming their new East Brisbane bistro.
Having steered the kitchens at Piaf, Sardine Tin, The Survey Co. and Aquitaine Brasserie, and continuing to run Chef & Co, consulting on various menus for restaurants, chef James Guldberg is now applying his expert touch to a locale of his own, The Catbird Seat Bistro in East Brisbane. Set along Stanley Street East next door to Foxy Bean, the intimate bistro conjures an air of sitting in a quaint, dimly lit bistro of a quiet Parisian backstreet, as the sounds of Yann Tiersen sway overhead. James and Erin took over the space about a month ago, executing a quick refurbishment that saw vintage lighting and bentwood chairs moved in, along with a fresh lick of paint.
Drawing on James’ penchant for European flavours, the menu touches on French, Nordic and Scandinavian roots, while drawing focus to local seasonal produce. The tightknit team is completing all of the pickling, baking, smoking and curing in-house – from making creme fraiche and ricotta cheese to curing the selection of charcuterie. Coffee is sourced from Cup Coffee Roasters around the corner in Woolloongabba, and James pops down to the fishmongers himself to pick up the daily fish order for the bistro. The light lunch menu changes regularly with the availability of ingredients from the markets, with current offerings including a classic rueben with dill pickle, roasted mushroom risotto with goats feta and herbs and a pulled pork sandwich with apple and cabbage slaw and frites. A seasonal a la carte menu is also available across lunch and dinner, while breakfast is dished up all day on weekends.
Savoury appetites may lean towards the house-cured salmon hash with a soft-boiled egg, kale and red onion yoghurt at breakfast, while sweet tooths may opt for the warm crepes with banana caramel and housemade creme fraiche. Come dinner, prepare your tastebuds for an indulgently slow repast as you work your way through a selection of small vittles, entrees, mains and desserts. Think pork jowl, raspberry, provolone and toast to start, followed by watercress soup with a 63-degree hen egg and duck fat crisp breads or juniper-smoked mackerel, fennel escabeche, radishes and rye. For the main affair, solo diners may enjoy devouring a plate of wagyu beef with kohlrabi salad, smoked bone marrow and sauerkraut or slow-braised goat with vintage carrots, poached quince and crisp onions, while those feasting with friends could go all in for the roasted duck with duck fat potatoes, orange and fennel salad and currant sauce to share.
Just make sure to leave a little room for dessert, with humble winter warmers like fine apple and rhubarb strudel with caramel brandy sauce and creme fraiche on the menu. Take a seat at the beautiful wooden bar and sip a Fortitude Brewing Company beer while admiring the brightly coloured jars of pickled vegetables dotted around the space, or settle in for a night of feasting, paired with wines from Australia, New Zealand, Europe and Argentina – selected to match the dishes the kitchen is plating up.
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